History of Filiatra

THE CITY OF THE OLIVE TREES

FILIATRA

“Former Princess of the Raison Plants”

By Christos Plakonouris

Translation By: Father Eystathios Kontoravdis

Filiatra today is the second largest city in population in the state of Messinia. The city is located on the andipodes of Kalamata, facing the Mediterranean, in the center of the valley of Trifilia, between the cities of Kyparissia and Gargalianoi. The fertile land which begins from the mountain of Egaleo to the Ionian sea is full of olive trees, and vineyards with varying types of grapes. During the past few years because of agricultural reasons the city has not improved at all. On the contrary instead of the city improving it has remained the same.

Filiatra is 80 kilometers from Kalamata, the capital of the state, and only 70 kilometers from Pyrgos the capital of the state of Elia. It is the only city so distant from the capital. This is because the county of Trifilia was divided and part of it was given to the state of Elia, and the new county of Olympia, which in the times of Homer was the entire county of Trifilia. The city of Filiatra developed a civilization, greatly influenced from the Ionian Islands, in particular the Island of Zacinthos (Zante), and the state of Arkadia, because many Arkadians left the mountainous area to live in the valley of Messinia. For this reason the citizens of Filiatra and other Messinians do not share the same customs, especially past the area of the mountains of the city of Kyparissia.

The people of the city of Filiatra are a little disappointed since, in the city there aren’t any developments. Last century the cultivation of vineyards gave increased revenue for the area. Important works were established, city squares, roads, aqueducts, a reservoir, marble fountains and public parks. Associations were also established. Beautiful churches and chapels were built, water fountains, made in Venice and Florence were placed in the city. Sewer systems were put in place and the city which is only one kilometer from the sea looks beautiful because of these improvements.

During the vineyard era in the city of Filiatra 12,000 were residing, and there were seven European artists, as well as schools of music and dance. It is characteristic that the chief musician of the palace, Megel, after being deposed from the palace, came and taught music in the city of Filiatra. Various schools, even a private school existed in the city.

In 1886 a large earthquake wiped out the city and hundreds died. Due to economic prosperity the city was rebuilt in a short period of time. When the royal family went to visit them they dressed humbly so as not to insult them. But much to their astonishment they found the city had in abundance of everything and was well off.

On the other hand not all of them were wealthy, a number of people tried to survive as hard laborers. The carriages found, were made of clay and cane. The visitor can find such displays from the historic era in the areas of Stomio, Gourounospilies and St.Christopher. When the Nilidies were at their peak the area was full of small agriculture and livestock colonists. In the area of Stomio, Morena and Lagadi such signs of housings and pieces of artifacts are found.

The city of Filiatra was known as Erana, this is why during the era of Kapodistrias, Filiatra was the capital of the municipality of Erani. Stravonas places the area of Erana between Korifasio and Kyparissia. This place is close to the area of St. Kiriaki. Even though ancient artifacts were found, but nothing can prove that ancient Erana was there.

Christianity was found very early in the area of St. Kiriaki, the foundations of a Christian Basilica was found in the village of Christianoupolis. According to history a monastery existed there. The Byzantine church of the Transfiguration of Christ, which has a great tradition, can also be found there. Tradition wants to compare the beauty of the church of Christianoupoli with the beauty of St. Sofia.

The Byzantine period left even more signs in the area. One kilometer south of the city there is a church with a cross shaped architecture, which is believed to have been built in 1110-1120 A.D. this is the church of the Ascension, and from the appearance of the church we can be assured of the existence of the city since then.

The principality of Morias and the barony of Arcadia (Kyparissia) were established during the domination of the Francs. The first written documents of the existence of the city of Filiatra arose from this time period. In the area of Vaggelistra, the imprints of a fountain stone tell us that the master of Acadia, Erados D’Avou, built it so that the villages of Filiatra, Ermaka, Morena, Lekita, Chrisovitsa, and Valta would have drinking water.

The presence of western Europe in Filiatra left a number of names of places and churches such as Kourtaki, Zacharianika, St. Marina and St. Denis. In the village of Morena at the position of Kastraki lie the remains of the castle where the lady of Morena used to live. She was the wife of Erados. From this period of rule, the most beautiful summer resort of Filiatra, the Agrili, and the Byzantine church of Panagia Agriliotisa remained by the sea. In the same location, a village by the name of Halazoni was destroyed by the pirates and then later rebuilt facing away from the Ionian Sea.

Later the Turks came. However, at the same time, Venetians claimed the fruitful land and strongly fought against the Turks. The names of the people of Filiatra who served as Venetian soldiers and fought against the Turks, were inscribed on a plaque dated 1652. In 1689, a census took place in Filiatra and the total number of people was 572. In 1700, another census took place and the number increased to 795. The people of Filiatra prospered by exporting olive oil and raisins to the European markets. In 1713, the icons in the beautiful chapel of St. George of Bouriana, were repainted by iconographer Micheal Pediotis. Unfortunately, in 1715, the Turks returned. They were strong Conquerors. An inscription on the fountain of Evagelistra verified this: “The Turks destroyed Ermalia, the monastary, and the palace of Passava, Mother of God, Save Us!”.

During this second occupation of filiatra by the Turks, the grievous hanging of Panagis Lelonis took place, as was read in the magazine of Filiatra, volume 1, Dec. 1956. They hung him because of his ability to pass the turkish riders during the horse races on the Feast day of St. George. His body was taken by his fiancee, Krinio Papadianou, who drowned herself in a nearby lake to escape persecution by the Turks. The historic Oak tree where Lelonis was hung can be seen today outside of St. George’s church.

In 1770, a few years prior to the death of Lelonis, another young mother fell to her death from the hillside of Prophet Elias Church. Today, in that place, is a large cross, built to honor the first hero mother Lenio Vlastou, the Skordakopoula.

In 1790, a Frenchman named Castelan visited Filiatra and painted the church and the surrounding buildings, reflecting the hospitality and nobility of the notable people of Filiatra.

In 1821, the residents of Filiatra pursued and besieged the enemy hiding out in the fort of Navarino. Here, the first civil battle took place between the families Papanastasi, Panagiotourou and Dredes. During this battle in Trifilia, the Filiatrini spilled the greatest bloodshed. When freedom arrived, Filiatra became prosperous. It was the largest city of Trifilia, with 5,632 residents in 1879. In 1941, the number increased to 11, 057 and in 1951, when the civilization of the raisin era ended, there were 9,151.

During the era of German and Italian occupation, the city of Filiatra was threatened by destruction when the phalanx of the Germans was hit from the communists in Chora Trifilias. The miraculous intervention of St. Haralambos to save the city is well known and is celebrated on July 18. This is why St. Haralambos is the patron saint of the city and many from Trifilia and from all Peloponisos come to venerate his icon, found in the church of Panagia Gouviotisa.

In the wintertime, the city of Filiatra clearly has an agricultural character. In the summertime, its population doubles since many of the out of towners built beautiful resorts by the countryside, like the Agrilis, the Limenari, St. kiriaki, and the Laggouvardos. The Ionian sea, which cools the seashores, is a sea which remains immaculate. Its waters are therapeutic. Many fisherman, professionals and amateurs, savor the many tastes cought from the sea. Many associations organize festivities in the summertime. Filiatra has three spiritual centers, a Christian club, soccer teams, three public schools, and one high school.

The villages of Filiatra are picturesque: Christianoupole with the Byzantine church of Metamorphosis, a village at the base of Aigaleou, the Plati with much water, the historic Halazoni with the beautiful recreation centers, the Exohiko, the cleanest village in the province, and on the mountain is the village of Mali,, where the God Panas wanders and the Driades brides look at the moon with untangled hair.